The Art of Eating Your Way Around France
Holidays are a time to relax, and what better way to do that than by staying in a hotel? Housekeeping, cooking, and washing up are all taken care of, making it an appealing choice. However, camping and self-catering can often be more cost-effective, especially in a country like France, where food shopping is part of the charm. Over nearly 20 years of writing about France, I've learned that the French have their own unique ways of making life easier in the kitchen while still enjoying the best local produce.
In my book Amuse Bouche: How to Eat Your Way Around France, I explored how the French shop and cleverly manage their meals. By adopting some of their techniques, you can savor the finest ingredients without spending hours in the kitchen. This allows you to focus on the real pleasures of a holiday—sipping rosé on the terrace of your gîte or villa.
A Morning Trip to the Boulangerie
One of the most cherished traditions in France is starting the day with a trip to the bakery. Whether it's for a fresh baguette, croissants, or pains au chocolat (known as chocolatines in the southwest), the boulangerie is a must-visit. But savvy travelers know that this is also a great place to pick up lunch items. Look out for homemade quiches, vegetable tarts, or chaussons, which are similar to pasties. These can be enjoyed as a picnic or served at your accommodation with a simple salad.
You might not even need to make the salad yourself. Many butchers’ shops and market stalls act as "traiteurs," offering freshly made mixed salads, marinated meats, and other ready-to-eat options. This means you don’t have to worry about stocking up on herbs, spices, or condiments.
For dessert, the patisserie counter is a dream come true. Pick up a box of éclairs and try to resist eating them on the way back to your accommodation.
Hypermarkets and Specialist Shops
Hypermarkets are a one-stop shop for everything from swimwear to school supplies. However, it’s easy to get lost in the aisles. Focus on what you can't find at home, such as a wide range of preserves, including the famous Bonne Maman greengage jam, or Prince biscuits, which are sandwiched with chocolate. You’ll also find the largest selection of yoghurts imaginable.
French supermarkets are increasingly catering to specific dietary needs, with organic sections and options like soya milk, gluten-free bread, and diabetic-friendly biscuits. On local high streets, look out for "epiceries fines"—posh food stores that offer gourmet soups, high-quality sauces, dressings, and interesting beers and wines.
Find the Local Market
Most towns and villages host weekly or biweekly markets. Ask at the tourist office for the schedule or search online for “jours de marches” and the town name. Here, you’ll find a variety of fruits, vegetables, cheese, and charcuterie directly from producers. It's good to observe the locals before picking through the produce.
Look for a rotisserie chicken stall for a quick meal. Often, they cook potatoes in the base of the roaster, allowing you to buy a whole roast dinner in one go. Markets are also ideal for picking up charcuterie, cheese, olives, tomatoes, and salads for a grazing table—perfect for an easy evening meal.
Cheeses and charcuterie are highly regional, and trying local specialties is part of the fun. In Burgundy, for example, look for jambon persillé (parsleyed ham), which pairs well with cornichons.
A Basic Lesson in Cheeses
Choosing from a fromagerie counter can be overwhelming, especially if your French is limited. Start by knowing that the best cheeseboards include at least five kinds of cheese. Ask the server for their local recommendations.
Begin with a hard cheese (“Pourriez-vous suggérer des fromages à pâte dure?”) and see what they suggest—perhaps comté, beaufort, or abondance. Next, choose a soft or semi-soft cheese (“fromage à pâte molle” or “fromage à pâte demi-molle”). Milder options include Morbier, Saint-Nectaire, or Ossau-Iraty, while those who enjoy strong flavors will love Maroilles, Époisses, Munster, or camembert de Normandie. Look for “au lait cru” (raw milk) and “moulé à la louche” (ladled by hand) for the best quality.
French goat’s cheeses are particularly delicious. Seek out Valençay, Saint-Maure-de-Touraine, Banon (wrapped in a chestnut leaf), or Picadon. Don’t forget to include a blue cheese: Bleu de Vercors-Sassenage isn’t too strong, Fourme d’Ambert is creamy, and a good Roquefort is unbeatable.
Amuse Bouche: How to Eat Your Way Around France by Carolyn Boyd is now available in paperback (£10.99, Profile Books).
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